Tour Aberfoyle on a relaxing small
group vacation of my Scotland

" I look forward to showing you my historic
Scotland, as only a native Scot can. "

There are four distinct sections of Aberfoyle, two of them 2 miles apart--from the Rob Roy Roadhouse area to the east, to the Milton on the west, almost at the narrow foot of Loch Ard. The former is most visitors' first sight of Aberfoyle, and here there has always been a mill and cottages also, the mill-wheel still in position. Here too is the golf-course. The other two sections are called the Clachan and the Kirkton-- these all being typical old Scots divisions of any community. Nowadays the whole village tends to get called the Clachan of Aberfoyle; but this in fact used only to refer to the group of cottages round the famous inn, which lay almost a mile west of the present modern village--an inn haunted by Rob Roy and generations of other MacGregors, corning down from Glen Gyle, Inversnaid and so on. The present Bailie Nicol Jarvie Hotel is the 'descendant' of this inn, though on a more easterly site, and still retains the famed poker, really a plough coulter, with which the doughty bailie laid about him, as in the scene immortalised by Scott in his Rob Roy. This modern part of the village is not particularly attractive, despite its fine setting--indeed it grew up round the now-defunct railway station, and rather looks the part. The station has gone, and its yard is now used as a large, necessary but hardly handsome car-park, with facilities. Here are good shops, tea-rooms, craft centres and the like.

The Milton, to the west, still retains its old-time atmosphere, despite some modern housing development. The school and modern church are pleasantly placed on the rising ground between.

For antiquities one has to take the road which turns south, at the Bailie Nicol Jarvie. Here is the ancient, hump-backed and famous bridge over the infant Forth, leading to the Kirkton--site of a notable affray in 1671, when, at a christening of all things, the Grahams of nearby Duchray came to blows with followers of their far-out kinsman, the Earl of Airth, in typical Highland feuding fashion. The old parish church, where the christening took place, is a little farther on, and though now a ruin, still retains its belfry. How old it was is uncertain, for it was rebuilt in 1744 and repaired in 1839. It was an appendage of Inchmahome Priory. At the door still are two heavy mort-safes, in the shape of iron coffins, to foil body-snatchers of the Burke and Hare type; and there are many old gravestones, including one, dated 1692, for the Reverend Robert Kirk, who translated the Psalms into Gaelic verse--as well as distinguishing himself in more esoteric ways. In this connection it is interesting to note that, as late as the 1842 Gazetteer, it is declared that "everybody (in the district) understands English, though the Gaelic is chiefly in use . One wonders how many Gaelic-speakers there are in Aberfoyle today?

The road past the kirk is a cul-de-sac, ending in a number of woodland tracks through the great planted Loch Ard Forest which clothes all the foothills to the south--for this area is greatly invaded by the Forestry Commission. Half a mile along, near the fork, on rising ground now used for Forestry housing, is the site of a good stone circle, which had ten stones, with a larger one in the middle. To the east of the Kirkton rises the large modern Covenanters' Inn, a well-known hotel whose name refers to the 20th, not 17th century Covenanters, who met here and drew up the wording of their Scottish Covenant on self-government which attracted over two million signatures, in 1949. Now, this is a great place for pony-trekking--indeed everywhere you go in Aberfoyle area, Highland garrons are in evidence.

The road in the other direction, rising steeply behind the village northwards, to the Trossachs, is a 'must' for all visitors. A short way up, crowning an isolated knoll, is the magnificently-sited Tea House, a notable piece of modern architecture, circular and pillared all round, providing the most splendid views. Indeed all this road, known as the Duke's Road, and threading the Duke's Pass, gives vistas in all directions--the slate quarries on the left being not too great an eyesore. The Duke, incidentally, was a Graham one, of Montrose, descendant of the Great Marquis. The large Achray Forest, which covers much of the area, diversifies the vistas. Just beyond the highest point, about 80 feet (Aberfoyle is at 65 feet) is seen the oddly named but attractive Loch Drunkie, famous for red-fleshed trout. It is a strange geographical fact that its north-eastern tip is within a quarter-mile of the shore of Loch Vennacher, though with high ground between, and 200 feet higher. The descent, on the north, to the head of Loch Achray in the Trossachs, is fine, the foot of Loch Katrine being only a mile to the west, and the head of Loch Vennacher 2 miles to the east.

Another very attractive road, though a private one, leads from the Kirkton westwards through the Loch Ard Forest to Duchray and beyond, passing by the picturesque wood-girt Lochan Spling. Duchray Castle, nearly three miles along, and actually in Stirlingshire, is a small but interesting tower-house of the late 16th century, with older nucleus, oblong, with a circular stair-tower and angle-turret. Unfortunately someone has 'gothicised' the windows, to ill effect; but the little fortalice is still delightful and kept in good order. In 1528 the laird was Buchanan of that Ilk; but in 1569 it was sold to the Grahams, and remained with that powerful family until modern times. The castle gave shelter to Rob Roy, despite his anti-Graham bias, on an occasion when the two Graham sisters managed to smuggle him out of the back door while entertaining dragoon officers at the front. Earlier, in 1653, Duchray was involved in the Earl of Glencairn's unsuccessful battle against Monk's Cromwellian troops in the Pass of Aberfoyle. After the Forty-five Rising, it was burned; which accounts for the altered roof-line.

The main B.829 road, west of Aberfoyle village, although a dead-end, continues for 15 glorious miles through the mountains, to terminate at Inversnaid on the east shore of Loch Lomond, passing Lochs Ard, Chon, Katrine and Arklet, one of the finest scenic runs in the Southern Highlands.

For the Independent Traveler to Scotland we also offer help with Airfares, Hotel Packages, and Rail Travel.

Leave The Herd Behind With A Small Group Tour of Scotland

All my small group tours of Scotland, which often include my native Fife, are paced for discovery and understanding, not just notching sites. Each small group is limited to an absolute maximum of 18 people, with a typical small group being just 6 or 8 people. I prefer to guide these small groups through Scotland in a relaxing manner, staying at two or three base locations from which we can visit places of interest - and not have to move luggage every day.

Tour Scotland guests tend to be travelers rather than tourists, enjoying seeing behind the tourist facade, while visiting with " locals " and seeing sites not normally seen by the regular tourist. Many group members visit Scotland to trace their Scottish ancestry; others to golf or fish; most come to simply enjoy the beautiful scenery, historic buildings and gardens, and most of all, to meet and enjoy the people of Scotland. My Tours of Scotland can be best described as being " couthy. " It's a Scottish word meaning " gentle."

What goes into an unforgettable Tour of Scotland ? Lots of great scenery, for sure. Perhaps also a smidgen of something you can't quite put your finger on, but nevertheless creates a lasting impression. Maybe a piper playing in the pub; perhaps a conversation with a local; a shepherd working his dogs; fishermen landing their catch. All my previous group members have their own lists of defining moments. I wonder what yours will be ?

Any time from April through October is a really good time to Tour Scotland. Spring and early summer are my particular favorites. Forests, fields and glens offer a wonderful array of colors during that time of year, while the long Northern days of sunshine let you get out and enjoy it. There is also no shortage of things to do as all the best attractions are already open, and are far more relaxed away from the mid-summer crowds, whilst in the cities the Arts season is in full swing. But whenever you visit, you're always guaranteed a warm welcome in my Scotland. June through August is the best time to attend Highland Games on a Tour Scotland tour.

Here's a built by a couple of Tour Scotland members from last year. I think you will find the site interesting and informative. A Journey Through Scotland. For my latest Tours of Scotland photos click: May 2003 or Loch Ness.

Tour Scotland group members will have the opportunity to shop, play golf, visit local pubs and simply go for walks and enjoy local sights and sounds. Let me know your reasons for wishing to Tour Scotland, and see if I can best fit your needs. If you would like to visit independently, or as part of a small group tour, or on another Tour of Scotland, please e-mail me:

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Sandy Stevenson All rights reserved 2000.